Harry Potter Monster Book of Monsters (WIP)

September 14, 2016, 5:27 am

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About a month ago I was showing my daughter how to make a prop (fake) book:



The book was a quick-and-dirty build (hence the felt cover) but I liked it. With a little work I thought it would make a very workable Monster Book of Monsters.

I used a Dremel to shape the eyes, brows, gums and teeth (here recently sealed with Modge Podge)


Painted some googly eyes (who doesn't love googly eyes?)




Hunted around on the internet to identify the fonts used for the cover of the book. Scaled and printed the letters and used the print out as a template to create the letters in craft form. Dry brushed the final script to give it the right colors and texture.



Airbrushed the teeth and gums and attached to the "book"



...and that's where the project is so far.

Thanks for looking.

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Red Dwarf Series XI Props

September 14, 2016, 11:23 am

≫ Next: Firefly and Vera

≪ Previous: Harry Potter Monster Book of Monsters (WIP)

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With just about a week until the new series hits online I thought I'd start this thread to discuss and replicate the latest goodies that the crew of the Dwarf will be using.

I was flicking through the new issue of SFX today in Tesco and came across a new image with some new props. Took a few snaps - please excuse the terrible quality phone pics (I was trying to make sure that the glare din't obscure the image of the guns). They're not the best, but hopefully they show a little detail.





Just like the Wibbly Wobbly gun from Series X, I figured it was probably based on a Nerf or Nerf knock-off. Then a couple of aisles down in the toy depart, I came across this:



Going back to the magazine now.... Yep, definitely the same gun. Needs new barrel (possibly the end of a torch?) and some kind of sigh. The pics don't show the detail well, but the slots in the side of the sight around the end make me think it's possibly a microphone?

Firefly and Vera

September 14, 2016, 1:58 pm

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Some time ago My wife and I were approached by a Brown Coat friend who wanted us to build him Vera. Well time has passed and A 3d Printer was added to our list of toys. And just over a month ago my wife and I said okay its time. Its time to start our first major prop. Well that being said Her and I approached Jeffrey Tabben over at Dutch Props and asked him if he would be willing to do a 3d Model of Vera for us. Amusingly he had just set the project aside because he wasnt going to have time to get it done for the Con he wanted it for. So he was kind of prepped and ready to go. Well we received the files here at the beginning of the Month and I have been steadily printing one piece after another. But to start out here is a couple views of the 3d Model.


And here is one of the pictures of the pieces I have printed at this time

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Voltron Shiro LED Arm

September 14, 2016, 7:28 pm

≫ Next: Fifth Element Case - Inquiry

≪ Previous: Firefly and Vera

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Hey everyone.

So I'm working on a non-paladin Shiro costume for MAGfest in January and I wanted to try something I've never done before, namely LED's and some programmed patterns.

I'm patterning the arm now and my plan is use some EL wire or LED's to light the seams of his arm, but here's where I start to have questions. If I want to have them light up in sequence so they flow on from one end to the other what would the best type of lights to use, and what kind of controller would i use to turn them on?

The other big question I have is about his hand. In the show the entire hand lights up purple. Is there any type of flexible lighting system that i could use on the hand? or should i just use the same kind of el wire on it instead?

Fifth Element Case - Inquiry

September 14, 2016, 8:29 pm

≫ Next: Terminator T-800 Endo skull build

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Hi guys, this is my first post on here, so I hope I'm doing it correctly. :) Anyone ever tried making the case from The Fifth Element? I've done a search but haven't found posts about it. I've made little props before, but this would be a grander undertaking. I'll probably make the stones as well, but the case has always fascinated me. :) I'm not sure where to start and whether it would be worth buying a similar case and altering it, or building it from scratch. My skill level is pretty introductory, but i'm familiar with resin casting/molding/woodworking, etc. What do you guys think? :confused

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Terminator T-800 Endo skull build

September 14, 2016, 9:25 pm

≫ Next: Bending acrylic sheets to perfect tube methods? Suggestions needed

≪ Previous: Fifth Element Case - Inquiry

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Hello all,
This is my first build post so please be gentle. I recently picked up a "vinyl" T-800 skull kit for a winter project. Besides having the usual vinyl kit warping issues, it's a VERY POOR casting with thin spots, bubbles, and de-lamination. I guess my general goal is to get it into an acceptable shape, stiffen it up, and re-sculpt most of the details. Due to the poor quality of the "vinyl", i'm concerned that my plan of slush casting "rondo" or plain fiberglass resin into the skull will cause additional warping or just melt through. After the slushing, I'll be filling in the rest of the skull with 5 Lbs foam. Besides looking over past and present builds for tips and hints, I hope to gain knowledge from some of you experts so I don't botch this up. Pics should be coming soon.

Bending acrylic sheets to perfect tube methods? Suggestions needed

September 15, 2016, 3:16 am

≫ Next: R2 D2 Dome Help

≪ Previous: Terminator T-800 Endo skull build

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Greetings, so I need to bend a sheet of thin acrylic into a large tube. It's pretty thin .090" and was told that it could be bent with boiling water which sounds better for full even heating. But the problem is that I don't have the exact shape I need to bend it (I don't have a cylinder that's 13" diameter.
So how would you approach this if you didn't have something of desired shape and size to bend it to?

One theory I have is to measure maybe twice the length I'll need and roll it up twice and hold it with tape, then heat it slowly.

Another thing I could think of is possibly not even heating it up. Just roll it up, over lapping. Since it's thin, I can glue and sand or fill it down to where it's almoat unnotoceable.

What do you guys think?

R2 D2 Dome Help

September 15, 2016, 4:45 am

≫ Next: Blade Trinity - UV Arc

≪ Previous: Bending acrylic sheets to perfect tube methods? Suggestions needed

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Hi all haven't been on here for a while as have had health issues but I'm back now to start new projects anyways on to the point I am looking for R2D2 dome measurements scale 1.1 (life size) if anyone can help that would be excellent

Dave

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Blade Trinity - UV Arc

September 15, 2016, 1:21 am

≫ Next: Help Making Con Safe Nails

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Hi everyone

I'm Hannah and I'm a cosplayer (www.facebook.com/cosplaycyanide) and this is my first post on this forum, although I've definitely been here more than once to find that little detail of a prop / costume that isn't easy to find!

Anyway, my latest project is the UV Arc from Blade Trinity - I know it's a well loved movie among its fans, but I definitely haven't seen a UV Arc made in the community yet... could be wrong though. I've just finished the ref blueprint of the UV Arc (see here) and I'll be getting started on the build this weekend.

I hope I did this right and that there are people out there who still remember this movie - for the con, I'll be going with a Blade cosplayer and a Hannibal cosplayer :)

Help Making Con Safe Nails

September 15, 2016, 7:02 am

≫ Next: Ash vs Evil Dead - Mechanical Hand - Parts ID?

≪ Previous: Blade Trinity - UV Arc

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I'm trying to make a spiked bat with nails hammered in a wooden bat. Obviously, I can't use wood, so I'm planning on picking up a plastic bat and painting it. But I also need nails. Preferably something flexible that won't break. I've heard about using drinking straws as molds and squeezing in some silicone caulk but my tests show the caulk is a little too thick to go in the hole evenly. I was wondering about latex, but not sure that will be strong enough or if it would fall apart. Would I need a rod in the middle to stabilize the nails? Also, how would I get them to stick to the bat? The plan would be to drill holes in the bat, but the plastic bat will likely be hollow giving me little surface area to glue them to, not to mention the issue with trying to glue a flexible material like silicone or latex.

Ash vs Evil Dead - Mechanical Hand - Parts ID?

September 15, 2016, 1:45 pm

≫ Next: Dubstep Gun from Saint's Row build with Bluetooth !

≪ Previous: Help Making Con Safe Nails

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Late to the party again, but now that I'm watching it I LOVE this series and can't wait for Season 2 next month. So.... Ash get's a new hand for when he's not chainsawing up the screen. I'd love to build one. Can anyone identify any of the parts? Particularly the black base piece around the wrist - looks kinda found and cut to match the curve rather than sculpted from scratch to me.

Dubstep Gun from Saint's Row build with Bluetooth !

September 15, 2016, 11:25 pm

≫ Next: Overwatch Tracer Gun - WIP

≪ Previous: Ash vs Evil Dead - Mechanical Hand - Parts ID?

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It's been a while since I posted on here But I haven't forgotten all my friends here on the Replica Prop Forum! I would like to share a somewhat recent build I have done, so here goes!

Attachment 664353

I made the basic shape from 6 mil Sintra, I use a lot of Sintra in my builds mainly because I have a bunch of it scored from salvaging it from a grocery store remodel!

Attachment 664354

I cut out the holes needed and slushed some urethane resin into places that needed more structural integrity, such as handle mounting points etc.

Attachment 664355

I used 12 volt strip led's behind acrylic that was sanded on the backside to diffuse the light. Dials were made from various sizes of pvc and body filler was used to make the bevels. The Led's ran off of 8 AA batteries that were held in the rear of the gun behind a panel held on with magnets.

Attachment 664356

The needle arm was made by filling a vinyl tube with urethane resin and zip tied to armature wire that was pre bent to the shape I needed. Once cured, I just cut the vinyl tube off and had a resin arm like I needed!

Attachment 664357

I don't know why this picture posted sideways, but I took the magnet off of a 6" woofer donated to me from a local car audio shop to save weight. The woofer is purely cosmetic and the sound comes from the smaller speakers. All the bluetooth hardware is inside the front box in the bottom with an aux input and USB recharging port. It is separate from the LED hardware.



This isn't even all the parts, I believe there are more than 70 pieces to it !



Here you can see where the battery box for the LED's are hidden, but easy to get to.



The cables were sourced from an old set of A/V cables from a PS Vita I don't have anymore. The RCA plugs were almost a perfect match, so I cut them off and cast copies in urethane resin so I would have enough. I can sync the Dubstep gun to my phone and play sound through it. I have a short youtube video demo showing this here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QGHHg3vbps . I also have more things to look at on my FB page, http://www.facebookcom/vectorsigmacreations

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Overwatch Tracer Gun - WIP

September 15, 2016, 11:32 pm

≫ Next: Check this out - Wazer Desktop Water Jet

≪ Previous: Dubstep Gun from Saint's Row build with Bluetooth !

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Hello everyone! Kind of new here, I did a lot of lurking before I finally made an account.

This is my first build; I had my mind set on doing it long before I realized there were 3D files available and all that. It really seemed like a quality piece to learn on since it is smaller and has a reasonable amount of detail with references available from Blizzard. I figure if this build goes well enough I might be able to build upon and part it out eventually to include electronics, etc.

I'm currently working with pink insulation foam. Once I get better roughed out details I'm going to paper mache it, then build up and refine details with bondo.

Currently working out a way to cut out the holes in the middle accurately. I have a basic Dremel but it isn't rated for cutting. Since this is foam, I'm considering picking up a cutting/routing bit and seeing how it goes.

The biggest problem I'm seeing though is that my main reference was not a perfect profile. That being said, the barrel and tip of the gun are totally out of whack. I only realized this after building the svg file and had started working on it. I'm hoping to revisit that after I have the rest of it built out more so I can have better points of reference.

If you have any tips or anything I'm all ears!

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Check this out - Wazer Desktop Water Jet

September 16, 2016, 1:18 am

≫ Next: Clear Worbla Fire Prop

≪ Previous: Overwatch Tracer Gun - WIP

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It looks like it would be great for making some pretty awesome prop parts.
In a lot of ways I've been looking for something like this more than a 3D printer.

The cons, in my opinion, are the cutting time in relation to how much abrasive it "consumes" in the process. Since the abrasive is not reusable, it can cost quite a bit to cut out a part, depending on the material and thickness.

I'm guessing if demand and evolution of a product like this are anything like 3D printers, it'll address those cons down the road.

I'm not normally an "early adopter" but I'm giving this some serious thought. It's pretty impressive that it's been on Kickstarter for 2 days and has already raised 8x it's funding goal.

Thoughts?

Clear Worbla Fire Prop

September 16, 2016, 7:59 am

≫ Next: Pokemon Go Team Keychain

≪ Previous: Check this out - Wazer Desktop Water Jet

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How to make your own handheld flame
By Sir Nick Justice
Facebook.com/SirNickJustice

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9LD1EShxQuI

Video Tutorial above






Things you will need

1. Airbrush with blue
(or desired color paint)
2. Heat Gun
3. Scissors
4. Bowl of Water
5. Templates of Fire
http://www.printabletreats.com/print...lame-stencils/
6. Glue gun with sticks
7. Clear Worbla
8. Marker
9. LEDs (I used Moon lights)
10. Paper Towels (for the mess)




Cutting, Tracing, Heating
1. Take your templates, cut them out, trace onto the worbla three times, cut the clear worbla out of those shapes
2. After cutting out your 2D flames, use a heat gun to make the worbla malleable and fold the flames inside and out to get the waves
3. Dip into the bowl to cool down instantly to keep its shape
4. Be sure to heat the tips of the flame, twist, and cool them off




Painting and Drying
1. Keep note of which side you start airbrushing your colors onto
2. Airbrush the color onto your flames
3. Wait for them to dry (not tacky) and add a second layer





Assembling
1. Use your LEDs and manipulate them into a cross like pattern so the base of the flame has more LEDs than the top.
2. Take your three flames and use the glue gun to attach two pieces into a triangle like shape by gluing the edges
3. Insert and glue your cross shaped LEDS into the flame and attach the last piece
4. If any paint rubs off then airbrush again on the inside
(Optional) Paint the outside of the flame the color too
5. Seal the flame with a sealant such as ModPodge



You are now complete for your own cool props!
Huge thanks to Dragon's Lair for sponsoring this video.
Be sure to check out their website for awesome worbla supplies, comics, statues, paint, and more!
http://dlair.net/sanantonio/

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Pokemon Go Team Keychain

September 16, 2016, 9:44 am

≫ Next: Harry Potter Wizard's Chess Chessboard

≪ Previous: Clear Worbla Fire Prop

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What's up everyone. Just wanted to show my 3d print and method for acetone smoothing a Pokemon Go Team Keychain.

https://youtu.be/py8zhtZuMQ8

Harry Potter Wizard's Chess Chessboard

September 16, 2016, 11:30 pm

≫ Next: Isolinear Rods from Quark's Bar on DS9

≪ Previous: Pokemon Go Team Keychain

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To start, i dont like Harry Potter but i do love chess so when i learned that there was a chess set featured in the movie i wanted to try and replicate it for my collection. In searching for reference i found that a fellow RPF member @Pete SSS built a fantastic board which i found a wonderful source of inspiration, his thread is located here:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=147539

So here are a couple of screen shots from the movie that i went from.

First off the pieces. They are Isle of Lewis chessmen, there are a number of places that you can get a good replica set, etsy from user "oggtheclever", or from ebay like i did from "winkingblindbats" which is of great quality. After i received the pieces i had to decide how big to make the squares and in turn how big the full board should be. These are large pieces and at first i used 2" squares but i felt like the pieces were too cramped so i went up to 2.25". I drew it out on paper in a few different sizes first before i started drawing in the computer. mock up below at 2.125" which i thought was still too small.



i have to thank @PeteSSS for his build and i have to admit that i redrew a pattern that he made for the boarder as i could not find any reference myself and i though his looked great. below are my drawings done in rhino3D ( a CAD program i use a lot at work for 3d modeling but is killer at 2d as well). boarder close up and final board with pieces separated so as to be printed on an 11x17 laser printer.





I wanted to find paper that would simulate leather so i picked up some "silktouch nuba" by skivertex at FLAX art supply. this stuff is awesome, its kind of soft and has a nice tight grain print. its not too expensive, about $5 for a 17x36 sheet, i got black and cream color. I cut the paper down to 11x17 so i could run it through the laser printer at work. It needs to be printed with toner so that the gold foil will react and stick. I used "minc" heat reactive foil and the cheapest laminator i could find on amazon, i think it was $15.

you take a sheet of the foil and tape it to the leather paper then i ran it through the laminator twice. then i peel off the foil sheet and the foil sticks to only the toner that was printed on the paper, its pretty amazing and worked perfectly.



next i cut out all of the boarders and squares which was extremely tedious trying to cut them perfectly. below is an image of a mock up before anything was glued down, i was starting to get really excited at this point. the only bummer is that the largest i could print was 11x17 so i had to split the boarders into two pieces, definitely not ideal as matching would be difficult later.




to be continued...

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Isolinear Rods from Quark's Bar on DS9

September 17, 2016, 8:34 am

≫ Next: Overwatch Genji Dragon Blade

≪ Previous: Harry Potter Wizard's Chess Chessboard

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Hi guys,

I'm busy today and finished two isolinear rods from Quark's Bar.

Dietrich

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Overwatch Genji Dragon Blade

September 17, 2016, 8:54 am

≫ Next: Sideshow T-800 Life-Size Bust Mod

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Hey guys just finished my Genji Blade today and im extremely satisfied, hope you guys like it, ill post the process later after sorting those photo, my phone is kinda messed up right now
The real size of the blade is like 1.6m long, i figured its too big so i had to scaled it down to about 1.2m to match.I
I used plexiglass, foamboard and evafoam for the most part, some tiny details are resin casted.
Powered with 8 x AAA 1.5v battery, i havent do the capacity test but i believe the leds can last up to couple hours no problem
The on/off switch is hidden inside the silver hand guard

Sideshow T-800 Life-Size Bust Mod

September 17, 2016, 9:54 am

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Almost 10 years after I've purchased the 1:1 T-800 SS bust (clean version) and inspired by some mods on this forum, I've finally decided to do something about the eyes. The first mod I did just after I bought it was using a dummy battery in order to tone down the bright LED's but the drunk looking T-800 was still annoying me.

First of all the eyes weren't looking in the same direction, so it looks cross eyed. The troubled eye is also more outwards than the other one. the 4 parts which are supposed to keep the eye in place were not all in the correct position. It looks like the complete eye was turned 180 degrees. I am planning to change the lenses and have clear ones. I probably want to create an iris behind the lens as well to finish it off.

I've put the skull on a thick pillow first and started surgery...

Popping off the red lenses was quite easy just by using a hobby knife. The "good" eye has it's LED popping out more than the other one. I can't push it back unfortunately. The LED bulb or it's wiring seems to be glued/stuck to the eyeball. I want both eyes/LED to be levelled so they exactly look the same.



Next I got a large flat screwdriver, covered it with duct tape, put some masking tape over the eye socket for protection and carefully managed to free the wonky eyeball from its socket. I also took out the 4 parts in order to put them back in the correct position (one of them got broken, hopefully it can be fixed with glue).

I am still in the process of getting the wonky eye in the same position as the other one by removing material behind it so it can be put further backwards.
I didn't manage to get the eyeball fully out as the LED is stuck in the eyeball and I don't want to cut off the wiring as yet. I first want to try fixing it without risking the wires disappearing into the skull...(the horror!)

I still need to do some work on the LED on the "good eye". Hopefully I don't need to break it off as well...

In the mean time I've coated the teeth with some varnish to give them a more realistic look. I've also darkened the gaps so they look like separate teeth in stead of one piece of plastic...this still needs some work though.







I've just took some test shots of the eye with the original red lens with a washer behind it to mimic the iris (I am still awaiting the clear lenses to arrive).

The original lens and a similar sized washer:


Left: without the washer; Right: with the washer


I am still experimenting with the red lenses. I've managed to get the look of both eyes exactly the same. I've used some grey "blue-tag" to fill up the area around the LED's. I've used regular glue to give the lenses a hazy look and I've put the washers behind them.



I can even use all 3 batteries because the light has been dimmed quite a lot now :D

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