I WILL Finish this prop or ELSE!

October 3, 2016, 9:43 am

≫ Next: Gandalf staff restoration through Artisan FX....awesome!

≪ Previous: Finishing the surface of props in hard to reach areas...How do you do it?

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What do you have sitting around that, for one reason or another, JUST isn't getting finished?


For me, it's a simple matter of not knowing HOW to do it PROPERLY.

GEOFF Peterson's test head never got finished. I couldn't figure out how to get the top metal part of the mowhawk down FLAT rather than jagged.
I also never got around to test motorizing his mouth, despite finding a tutorial online.
And Funds never got grounded enough to order his full skeleton and a podium that kind of looked like the one on the LLS.





C3P0. The Pipe System NEVER worked out. I wanted to try and find a manaquin for him for him to use, but the problem in getting them to fit would be the chest plate and the head. supposedly they are out there, but i never found one that was confirmed to fit.




Anovos storm trooper. I'm not sure how to trim the remaining section of cut away armor pieces. I'm afraid to dremel it away on low power and i want to get this done before i try to finally assemble it.

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Gandalf staff restoration through Artisan FX....awesome!

October 3, 2016, 9:53 am

≫ Next: Lord Humungus (Mad Max 2) mask...distressing paint question.

≪ Previous: I WILL Finish this prop or ELSE!

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Hey folks,
Just wanted to let everybody know what an awesome job Artisan FX did for me in a recent project.

GeneralFROSTY and crew did amazing work restoring my LOTR Staff of Gandalf prop replica from the United Cutlery collection, and it has made its way back to my teaching studio where my students adore it.



This piece has been somewhat notorious for deterioration across time, even without any "use", but Artisan FX used better materials to heal the cracks and separation in the original finish at the headpiece, as well as brought the entire fading yellow color to a brilliant white that impressively resembles the original used in the films. This thing is better than UC ever did it to begin with. I'm quite sure Gandalf would...uh... let this pass.

If you are looking for high-quality restoration or prop production, look no further than Jimmy and these folks. Professional, reliable, and fast. They will use high artistry and care on your project, and they have my unqualified recommendation. Thanks guys!

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Lord Humungus (Mad Max 2) mask...distressing paint question.

October 3, 2016, 2:10 pm

≫ Next: ffxv noctis engine sword free 3d model

≪ Previous: Gandalf staff restoration through Artisan FX....awesome!

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Any ideas on how they painted this? Grey primer, it looks like... but how did they do the darker brush strokes?

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ffxv noctis engine sword free 3d model

October 3, 2016, 2:43 pm

≫ Next: Bondo & Other Resin/Epoxy's for Prop finishing.

≪ Previous: Lord Humungus (Mad Max 2) mask...distressing paint question.

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Hi, I thought I might share with you my most recent model, Noctis' engine sword from FFXV. It took me a lot of time but I hope this will help somebody here...

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1805461

Bondo & Other Resin/Epoxy's for Prop finishing.

October 3, 2016, 3:27 pm

≫ Next: Back Stage Props

≪ Previous: ffxv noctis engine sword free 3d model

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Hello All,
I've recently started a few larger projects that require large 3D Prints. Not wanting to always print on my highest resolution or having to resort to a lot of sanding a raw print, I figured i should invest in some different types of filler material that I can use on my prints as well as maybe on other props such as with wood and other plastics. Is there a good Bondo product that is a good all around filler that adheres to a wide range of materials and finishes?

Back Stage Props

October 4, 2016, 6:45 am

≫ Next: Nike Mag 2016 Lottery

≪ Previous: Bondo & Other Resin/Epoxy's for Prop finishing.

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Hey guys can some one vouch on these guys I like there work but I want to make sure they are good and there work is top notch prior to me sending cash off.
Thanks

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Nike Mag 2016 Lottery

October 4, 2016, 7:13 am

≫ Next: Can anyone identfy the brand of Miss Peregrine's pipe ?

≪ Previous: Back Stage Props

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The only way you can hope of winning a pair is to buy tickets.

https://mag.rallyup.com/donate

Can anyone identfy the brand of Miss Peregrine's pipe ?

October 4, 2016, 4:14 pm

≫ Next: NEW 3D design for the M41A Pulse Rifle .. accurate and working

≪ Previous: Nike Mag 2016 Lottery

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Is there someone here who could help me identify the brand of the pipe Miss Peregrine's is using in the film ?

I myself am a fairly experienced pipe smoker, but I can't really tell the brand nor the maker of her pipe. Colleen Attwood, who is responsible for the costumes, gave some decent interviews, but never mentioned the pipe. The production designer gave no interviews at all.

This is what I myself can tell now: looking at the general shape, it is some kind of a bent pipe with a silver ring on it. The mouthpiece is either cumberland or maybe amber. The pipe is made of briar most likely. That's all I know.

Can someone here help me out ? I would like to know which one she is using.

And sorry if this isn't the right place to post this question.

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NEW 3D design for the M41A Pulse Rifle .. accurate and working

October 4, 2016, 11:37 pm

≫ Next: Albion highlander I Katana

≪ Previous: Can anyone identfy the brand of Miss Peregrine's pipe ?

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Let me start by saying I am Australian and here in Victoria, Australia we have the strictest gun laws in the world.
We can't import airsoft nor real parts of any kind (without a mile of red tape and import permits/collectors licences etc etc) so I'm trying to fill a hole in the market so to speak.

What I Want :
I want an accurate reproduction with a working pump grip and grenade ejection port, removable mag, working loading action, working triggers, adjustable/sliding stock, working ammo counter and muzzle flashes for both barrels as well as sounds for all actions.... so the full box n dice really lol

I searched all over and found some good 3D models and even printed some
I designed my own to fit together over/around Nerf guns but it's not screen accurate enough for my liking hence this new venture.
I have been 3D designing for a while now and I am designing this new one with print quality and ease in mind as well as functionality and the ability to integrate all the little extras I can think of.

I will post some pics shortly and update with progress
Thanks for your interest,
Grant

Albion highlander I Katana

October 5, 2016, 12:17 am

≫ Next: Mrs. Peel You're Needed ! THE AVENGERS - What you got ?

≪ Previous: NEW 3D design for the M41A Pulse Rifle .. accurate and working

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Thought I'd share a project I'd been shooting for a while now. This is the only Albion H1 katana that I know of out there. Being 100%
aquired the hilt and tsuba from Albion then was given the name of the gentleman who was originally contracted to make the blades and assemble them. Rick Barrett
it turned out much better than I had imagined. Fully functional meaning removable tuba and handle for cleaning and blade maintenance. Blade is folded 1075 carbon steel

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Mrs. Peel You're Needed ! THE AVENGERS - What you got ?

October 5, 2016, 4:05 am

≫ Next: Gremlins Gizmo Life Size Puppet (review/warning)

≪ Previous: Albion highlander I Katana

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Any 1960's TV 'The Avengers' fans out there ? Any prop replica's ?

Gremlins Gizmo Life Size Puppet (review/warning)

October 5, 2016, 5:13 pm

≫ Next: 1st Prop - HP Mandrake

≪ Previous: Mrs. Peel You're Needed ! THE AVENGERS - What you got ?

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Hey Everyone,
I'm a huge fan of the Gremlins franchise and was super excited when I saw a pre-order for this little guy

However, what I came in the mail was something a bit different

As you can see the quality is mediocre at best. Gizmo himself is a hollow rubber shell with fur, there are seams EVERYWHERE and the paint job is a mess. So anyone who was considering dropping the $70 USD for one of these, heres a small preview.
My advice not at all worth the money, but a lesson well learned in pre ordering things.

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1st Prop - HP Mandrake

October 5, 2016, 5:57 pm

≫ Next: 3D printed TOS Phaser II

≪ Previous: Gremlins Gizmo Life Size Puppet (review/warning)

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This site has been an inspiration for me. My daughter's Girl Scouts are having a Harry Potter themed event, and I was elected to come up with some props. I chose to do a Mandrake. My first ever prop.

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3D printed TOS Phaser II

October 5, 2016, 9:36 pm

≫ Next: Blade Runner 2049, old and new blasters!

≪ Previous: 1st Prop - HP Mandrake

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A few months back, I modeled and 3D printed a midgrade TOS Phaser I. Inspired by pics I've been seeing in asalaw's and robn1's phaser threads, I finally got around to modeling and printing a couple of P2 sections (one early season 1 black-and-white version, and one post-repaint version). Still a work in progress, but I'm pretty happy with how they're turning out.

Modeled in Blender, working from the pics in The Making of Star Trek, photos of Greg Jein's phaser, Blu-Ray screencaps from trekcore.com, and some of the measurements from the screen shots in asalaw's thread. The rendered model:



Because it's sized around my existing P1, the size and shape of which I had estimated from the rulers in the TMoST pics, its proportions may not be exactly correct, but I think it's pretty close (and given the obvious variations in the screen-used phasers, as long as it ends up looking better than the one in "Space Seed", I'll be content).

Printed parts (unsanded except where needed to make them fit together, and unpainted):



I realized when I was test fitting the black-and-white and comparing it against screenshots from "The Man Trap" and "The Naked Time" that the rear fin block was supposed to be black, not the silver I'd printed it in, so I reprinted it in black after this pic was taken.

Test fit of the standard version (still unsanded and unpainted) with the P1 inserted:



Not too terribly shabby, though this was the third iteration of my design (the first attempt, I'd neglected to difference out a space for the P1's emitter hood, so the two halves wouldn't meet if the P1 was inserted; the second attempt fixed that problem, but then I decided to make the knobs movable instead of just glued in (looking ahead to when I add internal bits for a hero version).

And a test fit of the black-and-white:



When comparing against the screenshots, I noticed that the front of the P1 socket on Scotty's phaser in "The Naked Time" was really angular - it looked like a straight line between the front edge and the start of the little "shelf" on the side - whereas mine follows the curve of the P1 (and I think my "shelf" is a little too skinny). Not going to beat myself up over it, though.

And here's the two of them together:



I'd noticed in one of the screenshots from "Court Martial" that the front edge of the recess for the rear fins was actually slightly curved, so I reproduced that on mine. Think I need to extend the fin block forward on the black-and-white, though, so it meets flush with the edge of the recess.

But anyway, now begins the worst part of 3D printing props: the laborious process of smoothing them before I can paint and assemble. Then maybe I'll be motivated to finish tweaking the bugs out of my hero version of the P1, and add some functioning innards to the P2 model as well.

Blade Runner 2049, old and new blasters!

October 6, 2016, 10:41 am

≫ Next: Molding questions

≪ Previous: 3D printed TOS Phaser II

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Zoomed in screen grab from @nickytea showing the original gun next to a new version! Taken from this group shot from the set.

http://io9.gizmodo.com/the-blade-run...e-l-1787489270

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Molding questions

October 7, 2016, 7:59 am

≫ Next: Alien Egg tool holder

≪ Previous: Blade Runner 2049, old and new blasters!

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Hey rpfers I have a question! I'm currently in the molding process of my clay mask of reaper I am wondering what is the best way to cover eye holes and open necks or jaw parts what would you suggest I do I wouldn't mind opinion for helmet eye holes or neck holes or where the jaw may be open

Alien Egg tool holder

October 8, 2016, 6:22 am

≫ Next: 3d Blade Runner Blaster

≪ Previous: Molding questions

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I like practical props and was needing some new pencil cups to hold my sculpting tools, so I decided to jazz up my work area with some Alien egg pods.



I did the original sculpt in Chavant NSP medium and cast them in resin. Thinking about making a few other versions for variety.

3d Blade Runner Blaster

October 8, 2016, 9:58 am

≫ Next: Endo

≪ Previous: Alien Egg tool holder

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Hi all
Now that some of my other projects are done ive started working on my blaster. This was a 3-D print that a friend of mine printed out for me he found it online gave it to me as a birthday present. The grips are from Richard Coyle. they are what he called seconds which means they had some imperfections and bubbles for the price I really couldn't pass them up. Love the color of the grips they fit pretty decently but they're not an exact match to the 3-D print but that's not really a problem for me I would I'm going to do is assemble this first and see where I need to sand. Once it's sanded I will then see how well these grips fit and fill in any areas that I need to to make a grips fit better. Does anyone have any suggestions for finishing off this kind of kit. This is not the kit that is currently for sale through the RPF this was found I think on my mini factory.com and the creator of the 3-D file is Andrew Forrester. It does have a cylinder that swings out and a bolt that slides back-and-forth

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Endo

October 8, 2016, 5:14 pm

≫ Next: Need Some Suggestions for Making a "Sand" Base for a Prop...

≪ Previous: 3d Blade Runner Blaster

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My attempt at an Endo







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Need Some Suggestions for Making a "Sand" Base for a Prop...

October 8, 2016, 11:12 pm

≫ Next: My Collection!

≪ Previous: Endo

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Hi everyone.

I'm working on a small prop from the new Xbox game "ReCore."

I'd like the prop to sit on a base that appears to be made of sand, seeing as the game is set on a world that is primarily desert.

I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on how to accomplish this? I was thinking about taking just a simple plank of wood, covering it with some kind of filler to give it some "texture," then simply laying the sand down bit by bit with just some PVA glue...however, I'm worried that might end up with the sand being able to easily break free from the base.

Another option I could possibly use would be to actually build a very small decorative "sandbox" for the prop, and actually fill it with just real sand an inch or two deep...however, that doesn't really seem ideal either.

Would sand stick to itself if I did something like built a sandbox, then effectively flooded it with some PVA that's been diluted with water, then let the entire thing dry?

I'm open to really any suggestions. Thanks!